Welcome to a technical discussion of slot car controllers. Most of the following tips are specifically for Professor Motor electronic slot racing controllers, but many would also generally apply to a conventional resistor type controller or any other technology. If you have questions or need more information after reading this page, please click on the "email if questions" link below and let us know if we can help. As always, your feedback comments, questions and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Professor Motor Controller
Theory of Operation (Plus Series & Silver Series
Controllers)
Professor Motor "Plus" &
"Silver" Series controllers use electronic
semiconductors in place of resistive elements that are used in the more
conventional controllers that have been produced since the 1960's. These
electronic semiconductor devices have some really amazing properties that make
them ideal for application in a device to control power to model racing
cars. The most valuable of these properties is that these semiconductors
have an almost constant voltage drop of around 600 millivolts (6/10 of a
volt) independent of the amount of current going through the device.
This results in a very wide range of control possible for a large number of
different classes of cars and performance levels of motors for a single
Professor Motor controller. On the other hand, conventional resistor
controllers are highly sensitive to variation in motor performance whereas cars
with very high performance motors generally need greatly reduced resistance in
the controller and cars with very mild motors requiring much more resistance in
the controller. This is evident in the tremendous range of available
resistor values ranging from 0.4 Ohms to 90 Ohms. In effect, resistor
controllers simply divide the available voltage between the voltage drop in the
controller and the voltage drop across the motor. As a result, it is
generally necessary to change resistors when changing classes of motors.
The semiconductor type design we use in effect subtracts from the available voltage the number of devices in the circuit times the 600 millivolts. For example, if the the controller is only slightly open, 10 of the available semiconductors might be in the circuit (of the 16 total that the controller carries), in this case 10x0.6 or 6 volts would be used in the semiconductors, with the remaining 8 volts (assuming a 14 volt supply) would be supplied to the car.
The semiconductors also are polarity sensitive. They conduct electricity in one direction, but block it in the other. This feature has some advantages and also some disadvantages. The advantage can come from a natural resistance to miswiring since the semiconductors will block the flow of electricity if proper polarity is not applied. The disadvantage of this polarity sensitivity that the controller can not immediately be used with negative polarity track wiring can be easily overcome by the addition of a polarity switch, now available for all Professor Motor controllers.
Instructions for Professor Motor
Controllers & Accessories
Each controller or controller modular upgrade kit is packaged with an instruction
sheet for installation and this also may include use and care tips and other useful information. Those sheets
are reproduced here for reference. Please click on the link for the
controller model or upgrade kit of interest (files in PDF or HTML format).
PMTR2044 Ninco / Scalextric Sport Controller: PDF HTML
PMTR2045 Ninco Dual Power Base Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2046 Commercial Track "Rental" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2047 HO & 1/32 "Low Cost" Controller: PDF HTML
PMTR2048 HO & 1/32 "Club Racer" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2049 HO & 1/32 Commercial Track "Rental" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2050 Club Racer "Extreme" Controller PDF
PMTR2051 Ninco & Scalextric Sport "Gold" Controller PDF
PMTR2052 HO / 1/32 "Semipro" Controller PDF
PMTR2053 HO / 1/32 "Pro" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2054 HO / 1/32 "Pro" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2055 HO & 1/32 "Low Cost" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2056 HO & 1/32 "Club Racer Gold" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2057 "HO & 1/32" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2058 "Commercial Track" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2060 Commercial Track "Gold" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2061 Scalextric "Classic" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2062 "Carrera Home Set" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2063 Carrera "Gold" Controller : PDF HTML
PMTR2030 Power Pilot Light for "Plus" Series : PDF
PMTR2030 Power Pilot Light for "Silver" Series : PDF HTML
PMTR2036 Reversing Switch for "Plus" Series PDF HTML
PMTR2036 Reversing Switch for "Silver" Series PDF HTML
PMTR2037 Power Relay System for "Plus" Series PDF HTML
PMTR2037 Power Relay System for "Silver" Series PDF HTML
PMTR2037 Power Relay System for "Platinum" Series PDF HTML
Frequently Asked Questions
Question : I
just received a new Professor Motor controller, but I have a problem when
hooked up. The problem is that I have to depress the trigger of the
controller all the way on before a car even moves ! Has anyone had a
similar problem ? Do you pretest these controllers before you ship them or
is it possible that I have a faulty one? Is it possible that my track is
wired incorrectly ? My track works correctly for a Parma resistor
controller.
Response
: please click here
Question : I
just received a new Professor Motor 1/32 home set controller and I want to adapt
it for use with my plastic home racing set (Carrera) but I am not sure which wires from
the controller would mate to the terminal track I have. I also may want to
upgrade the standard power supply to allow for better performance on my
track.
Response
: please click here
Question :
I had a funny thing (sort of) to me last night.
While racing 1/24 cars, another guy crashed and one of his braids fell off his
car and landed on my lane across both power strips. When I pulled the trigger
again, not knowing it was there, it shorted my controller out. It fried one of
the traces next to where the brake wire comes in. The power lights showed power
coming in but nothing worked. I have a push button circuit breaker in the
controller, plus each lane of the track has a circuit breaker next to each
hookup station. The "club pro" was able to dab a small bit of solder
to bridge the short, controller works OK now, no hot spots from the solder job.
My question is, with two different circuit breakers in the system, what could
have caused the short inside the controller? I know it was a freak accident, but
is there any way to prevent it from happening again?
Response
: please click here
How to Make a Fleming Hinge for
the controller wiper arm (Large scanned images)
Link to
page 1 Link
to page 2
Controller Tech of the Future -
Do you know this man ?
Photo courtesy OWH
Tuning & Maintenance Tips
See "diagnostics
& repair"
... more to come